The Pain of Pilgrimage

So, I've been off the radar for the last 4 or 5 days. I´m in a serious amount of pain - PAIN!! My legs wont work and my body is in a general state of shock. What the hell just happened? I survived the Inka Trail!! HURRAYY!!! God, there were some pretty hairy moments where I thought I was dying but I made it.

Pain aside, I will never forget the last four days - I think they have been the most amazing of my life so far. I have never had to push myself so hard before, and I have never had so much fun. It was worth every agonising step and every Peruvian sole. We arrived back to Aguas Calientes yesterday (which is also known as Machu PIccu Pueblo), and after saying goodbye to my group I booked into a hostal which promised hot water 24 hrs a day and my own bathroom. All I could think about was the relief that hot water would provide to my aching body and the comfort of an actual mattress! Things didnt go quite as planned...

First of all, my lack of Spanish let me down as I tried to tell the "nice lady" that I didnt want the 3rd floor room she was giving me because I couldnt actually make it up there. I was met with a blank face. I took the room, only to realise 10 mins later that there was no glass in the window and the room was bloody FRIO!! SO I dragged myself back down three flights to try and explain my predicament to her. More blank stares. So I had to wayleigh a passing stranger who was able to speak Spanish. I was then told to wait 30 mins while "Christian", the local Jim´ll Fix It, went up to put in a window!! After sitting freezing for an hour with my muscles completely seizing up, I lost my cool and tried to cancel the booking. More blank stares. In my state of exhaustion, I couldnt argue any further and collapsed into a chair in reception with my poor head in my hands. Another hour later, I was roused from a deep sleep and was ushered into a different bedroom complete with real glass panes! I´m still baffled as to why they couldnt have just done that to begin with.

Dreaming of a shower, I peeled off my mudsoaked clothes and ran the water. Ten minutes later it was still ice cold. Tears were beginning to well at this stage. I couldnt face going back out to the plank at reception so I crawled into bed at 7 oclock and slept until 11 this morning.

I´m heading back to Cuzco on the train today so I have a few hours to spend here in Aguas Calientes now. There doesnt seem to be much here - it is really just a base for people visiting Machu Piccu.

Anyway, back to the Inka Trail. Every morning was a really early start. The first day I was picked up by the tour company at 4 in the morning. We had a longish drive through the Sacred Valley to Ollyantaytambo where we had breakfast and a chance to buy any remaining provisions for the trail. After another hours´drive we reached the foot of the trail. It was a beautiful sunny morning and everyone was in great spirits setting off! But it wasnt long before people started to really feel the difficulty of the climb. One girl from AUstralia got particularly bad altitude sickness, her nose started bleeding and her heart rate was very high. When the giude realised that he didnt have enough oxygen for her, she had to turn back. (We actually met her in Machu Piccu yesterday, as she got the train up to meet her boyfriend who had continued on, and she told us that she had been lying in bed sick for the three days.) Other people started throwing up and had very bad headaches but managed to keep going.

The first day was a huge shock to everybody! Even the fittest people found it really really difficult. We climbed 1100m, sometimes almost vertical climbs, and you just had to set your own pace and take it easy. The scenery really helped to distract you from the pain in your limbs and the tightness in your chest. We passed the most beautiful mountain scenery I have ever seen. So, that night we camped at 1100m - the tour company gave us a fantastic dinner and, despite everyone´s exhaustion, we had a great laugh just sitting around chatting.

Day 2 - up at 5 a.m. The guides woke us with coca tea in bed. After breakfast we had to climb another 400m which was really difficult. It was constant steep steps all the way to the top. What really takes your breath away is the speed at which the porters move. They carry huge weight on their backs (which is probably illegal in most countries!) Once we reached the top, Hamilton (our leader) gave us all a shot of rum, which is tradition when you reach the highest point on the Inka Trail. Before we could drikn it, we also had to give some to the Pachamama by pouring a drop on the earth. The next few hours involved a steep descent to the floor of the valley, which was very hard on the knees. Torrential rain started to come down which made things even more difficult but it was infinitely preferable to climbing up! After lunch we climbed up again, and then down, down, down. At this stage, your body is in complete exhaustion but I was finding breathing much easier.

Day 3 - this was more like a half day. 5a.m start again and it was a constant descent. Despite the fact that we werent on the go for as long on Day 3, this was the day that really took an effect on people´s bodies. By that evening we were all in severe pain, and any movement was absolutely excruciting. But we were able to forget about our troubles because Camp 3 had proper facilities, such as showers and a bar, and once everyone had a beer and washed the dirt off spirits were high again. The dinner on the last night was a great laugh and we were introduced to all 22 of our porters and had to show our appreciation.

On the final morning we had to get up at a quarter to four, everyone was DYING. We walked (or limped, in my case) for one hour to the Sungate. From here, you can catch the first view of Machu PIccu, but because it is the rainy season the valley was covered in a thick fog and we had to move on. After anohter half an hour the sun started to come out and the mist slowly started to clear. The first glimpse of Machu Piccu takes your breath away. There is something totally surreal about it. Once you have seen it, you just want to get there as quickyl as you can! We were very lucky with the weather - the mist was gone by about 7 oclock and the whole valley was bathed in sunlight. The next few hours were spent with Hamilton giving us a tour of the fortress, although it really was difficult to take it all in - everyone was shattered! What was really funny were the looks we were getting from the lazy tourists who had trained it up from Aguas Calientes. We had been walking for four days, some wihtout any showers, and all our clothes were COVERED in mud! Two Americans, who saw how much effort it was for me to walk, beamed at me and said "Oh we were just like that yesterday!" I had to hold my tongue!

In total, over the four days, we climbed to 4,200m above sea level, 35km of walking, got soaking wet and sunburnt. When we finished the trail we all went to the local thermal baths for an hour which was bliss! but overall hasnt provided long-term relief! I think it´s going to be a few weeks befoire I can walk properly again!!! I had planned to move on to Bolivia tomorrow but I dont see that happening for a few days. My shoulders are destroyed as well, so hauling 75litres around is probably physically impossible at this point.

It has been a very rewarding experience, something I think Im really proud of! You dont realise what you are capable of achieving until yuo really push yourself. Yes, it was the most difficult thing i have ever done physically but we had a great time. I ended up with a brilliant group and great guides and we spent most of the four days in tears laughing. Ive eevn met a few ppl that I might travel with for a while.

We´re all meeting in Cuzco tonight for a meal and a few drinks afterwards.

A Not-So-Savoury Adventure!

Feeling a little bit blue today. EVerything was going great, had a very enjoyable day yesterday, and then boom! out of the blue, this morning I wake up and I´m on the verge of tears. It could possibly have been meeting up with two Irish girls from Kerry yesterday (Julie and Brigid) - had lunch with them and spend most of the day chatting. It was a relief to talk to someone who actually understoond me, for a change. Even the other English speakers I meet have difficulties - probably with either the speed or pronunciation of my English. So, for a few hours yesterday I was able to relax for a while and not make much of an effort.But I think the real catalyst was a not so savoury adventure I had in the desert last night!

So, due to my tummy trouble, I spent a few days in Nazca waiting for it to settle before I got back on a rickety looless bus again! Initially, I think the hotel staff assumed I was travelling with the Irish girls Julie and Bridget, but when they left it became more obvious I was in fact a solo traveller. In predictable fashion the male members of the staff beat a path to my spot beside the pool to try their luck and "help me with my Spanish" :D. On my last night there, they invited me to go to a fiesta that was taking place in the town square. ALL the hotel staff were going, they said. So this was one of those decisions you are frequently faced with as a lone traveller:-

Do you play it safe and pass up on a local cultural experience OR do you go for it, take a risk and step outside your comfort zone?

In a heartbeat, I opted for the latter. At 10'clock that evening a knock came to my door. Pablo, the hotel chef, buffed and gelled to pick me up. When we got downstairs Andrea, the head waiter was waiting with a taxi running. Red flag #1. "Why are we taking a taxi guys? The plaza is right over there....". They assured me we would back to the fiesta, but first they wanted to take me to their favourite karoke bar. Now, as any of you who have been to Nazca will know, it is a tiny little place with maybe 3 or 4 bars tops, so I still couldn't fathom the necessity for transportation. But, I decided to trust them and hopped in the car. Minutes later, we were speeding out into the desert leaving the twinkling lights of the town behind and heading into TOTAL blackness. Red flag #2.

After about 15 mins, we arrived at what can only be described as a shed in the middle of nowhere. It's only connection to civilisation were the electricity cables running up to it. Inside in the gloom, there were empty chairs and tables, the faint glow of a tv in a far corner of the room and a vest-clad sweaty looking barman hanging over a counter. As I walked through the door, I looked over my shoulder and watched our taxi leaving clouds of dust behind it as it sped off back in the direction of Nazca.

Four beers later, I was starting to relax and I was having a pretty good laugh with my companions Andrea and Pablo. I was a little anxious about the fact that it was nearly midnight and we were missing the party back in town. They kept assuring me that after the next beer we would definitely go. Just as I thought we were gettign ready to wrap things up, the door swung open and a group of about 10 local farmers entered the bar. I don't exaggerate when I say that they stopped dead in their tracks at the sight of a woman, a white woman, a blonde woman in this their local watering hole. They stared, they muttered to each other, they stared some more. Eventually, after what felt like hours, they moved to some tables, ordered their drinks, sat down and continued to stare. At this point, Andrea thought it would be a fine idea for us to dance to the pop karoke that was blaring from the tv. Despite my loud protestations I was yanked to the floor and whirled around in full display of my boozing male audience. I was starting to get reaaally uncomfortable. This, my friends, is well outside your comfort zone!

Thinking then that I was fair game, various men took their turns coming up and trying to bargain with Andrea. My limited Spanish allowed me to pick out what sounded like a few derogatory comments, and when they started laughing together I thought to myself "That's it, you need to get the hell out of here - now."

I asked once nicely if we could leave. I was told, sure after the next beer. I asked nicely twice. Still no luck. Then I got mad. I demanded to be brought back to town. "Relaxxx senorita, you must dance, you must drink". Not least disturbing was the fact that by now by two male companions were themselves now nicely toasted and starting to get just a bit too frisky. Desperate times call for desperate measures, so I did something I would NEVER normally do. I stood up, looked Andrea square in the eye and I said "If you dont take me back to the hotel RIGHT now, you are not going to have a job tomorrow". I cringe even thinking that I had to say that to anyone, but it worked!

30 mins later we were back at the hotel. I scurried up the hotel stairs in the pitch darkness to my room. Just when I thought the night was finally over and I was safely back, I heard drunken stumbling footsteps on the stairs behind me. Pablo, seeing me back to my room at the end of the night. Drunk and pretty harmless really, he was chancing his luck one last time. I managed to persuade him that irresistible as he was, I was nobia (spoken for) to someone back in Ireland. With a parting hug, he shuffled back down the stairs and I gratefully went to my bed, locking the door firmly behind me.

Leaving Nazca today for Arequipa, but the bus doesnt depart until almost 11. Having to check out of the hotel at 12a.m. meant that I have had to pass some long hours today. I´m hoping that once I move on to a new place I will feel better. It helped to talk to my family today who were on-line at the same time as me, although it did result in some silly tears being shed. Feeling better now though.

Tummy trouble seems to have settled for a while. Something to be very glad about! especially while travelling. Hopefully, I can just crash out on the bus and sleep. ALthough, you have to be careful about everything - when you travel solo you are on constant high alert - double checking everything, not falling into too deep a sleep in case someone steals your bags! There are few times when you are not always thinking/assessing/scoping things out. With a bit of luck, the bus will be a lunatic/thief free zone. Arriving in Arequipa at 7:30a.m. tomorrow morning - not sure if that´s a good or a bad thing yet. We´ll see when I get there. The hostal I´m stayng in sounds pretty good and its only $7 a night - great!

Nazca has been an experience - came in contct with some real characters here. They are a very friendly, warm people who really want to portray the best side of their country. Okay, so the men can be a little irritating when they perceive that you on your own - they can turn into pests, but you can get those in any country, right? :D

So, I say goodbye to four long relaxing days in Nazca - probably a little too long to spend here as , apart from the Lineas, there´s not much to see here, but it was good to chill out in the sun for a few days.